Have you missed me? I've been decidedly quiet in my blog in the last few months. But I haven't been idle. I've been spending some time training my own dog, Zuri. One of my passions is teaching dogs to cope with routine handling and vet examinations. Things like having ears checked, eyes cleaned, blood taken, injections given, nails clipped, body parts handled and a host of other practical tasks. I espouse the value of such training and try to enthuse others about the benefits of teaching a dog to enjoy these intrusions which will, inevitably, be a part of every dog's life. I like to go one step further and teach the dog to be an active and willing participant in these procedures, without restraint if possible.

The benefits are numerous. It reduces stress in an anxious dog. It reduces stress in the care-giver. It reduces the probability of aggression resulting from fear due to restraint or unknown procedures. When a dog has been conditioned in a positive way to handling, there is less to fear and therefore less need to aggress. A dog who feels safe is a safer dog.
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On Mother's Day I spent some time with Zuri and a colleague, working on helping Zuri cope with having blood drawn, her temperature taken in two different positions, her heart and lungs checked (auscultation) and her ears checked with an otoscope.

Zuri has recently spent a lot of time at the vet and she is anxious when strangers try to touch her. All the training we have done has helped reduce her fear incredibly. I did need to restrain her for a catheter insertion but even that went smoothly due to the prior training we had done together; teaching her to stay still while I hugged her gently. Such a difference to the dog who once panicked and needed three people to hold her down.

In the video below I am introducing a stranger to make some of the techniques closer to what she will encounter at the vet. It won't always be me doing the procedures. I also take her temperature in two different positions because I noted at the vet that they took observations while she was recovering from sedation and it startled her. We hadn't yet practised while she was lying down, so I added this position to my training plan. Notice how she is wagging her tail during the training. This is what I love to see; a sense of expectation and enjoyment at playing a training game. To her it's just another way to gain reinforcement.

I've used a quote from Chirag Patel, an amazing behaviour consultant in the UK, as the title for this blog. He sees great value in teaching animals to be prepared for the everyday activities needed in order to care for them. I couldn't agree more. ​​

Here is the video link for email subscribers: ​https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZc0SD96IEM

Zuri is scared of noisy appliances. I introduce her to any new, noisy appliance in a carefully planned way and she is getting less fearful with every introduction. The rotary sanding tool is one gadget she doesn't like the sound of. It's not just the noise, it's also that it is associated with nail sanding which she doesn't really enjoy. I have helped her overcome her fear and gone one step further: I've got her to be happily excited at the sound and she comes running from wherever she is, whatever she is doing, when she hears it. Check it out.

Scout needed betadine solution applied to her muzzle twice a day. I wanted her to feel comfortable with the process so that it wasn't a drama each time. I also didn’t want to physically restrain her in order to apply the medication. I felt this was especially important since it had to happen more than once a day for many days. If I forced her and it became an event she wanted to escape, it may well become harder each time. I may have to use more restraint on subsequent attempts or have to chase and corner her to apply it. This would be unpleasant for both of us and do nothing to improve our relationship. These reasons were worth devising a plan to make it a game where if she stayed still and let me apply it, I would reinforce this with something she liked: Food!

​​I started with repeated and small steps rather than applying the betadine all at once.
 
Step 1: Scout stayed still while I stretched the skin for a second with my finger.

I helped her understand that I wanted her to stay still by using the well-known cue of “wait”.
If she moved away, I stopped immediately. She had some control: an ‘out’ if you like.
 
Step 2: She stayed still while I stretched the skin and touched the area with my finger for a second.

Step 3:  I touched for a little longer with my finger.
 
Step 4:  I touched with a dry cotton ball for a couple of seconds.
 
Step 5: I presented a cotton ball dipped in betadine for a second  but didn’t touch her.

​When it was wet it smelt of the betadine and dripped a little. Presenting it gets her used to the smell first, rather than coping with the smell and then the feel of a wet cotton ball on her skin. I made sure it wasn't too wet on future applications so it didn't drip. Practice makes perfect.
 
Step 6: She stayed still while I touched her with the betadine cotton ball for a second.
 
During the game, I touched her for a little too long and she drew back. When this happened I made a fuss and reinforced the behaviour of staying. She could have run away and disengaged. She was subsequently better the next time I touched her.
 
Step 7: I touched her for longer with the betadine cotton ball.
 
Step 8: Job done!
 
It took just over three minutes the first time. Much less on subsequent applications as she knew what was expected. It was quite hard for Scout to keep her head still (or any part of her body for that matter!). She likes to sniff and touch anything coming her way and most things end up in her mouth. In retrospect, I would improve the way I approached this by going even slower: by staying on each step longer to ensure Scout was even more comfortable and was able to keep her head still for a little longer as well. I would also add another step of presenting the dry cotton ball before touching her with it.
 
Here’s the video showing how it was done.

Animal training is my passion. For me it is not just training. I’m not satisfied with just getting a job done, or training a certain task to a certain level. It’s the journey. It’s how the job is done: how the task is taught. How the animal is responding matters immensely.
 
It is really important to me that the animal is showing signs of wanting to engage. Further, I want to engender an attitude of joy in the trainee. I want it to be fun for the learner. There is a wonderful by-product of creating an enjoyable learning experience – the trainer is associated with the positive experience. The trainer is the source of all good things, someone to keep an eye on, to gravitate towards. The trainer is consistent, to be trusted and not feared. The trainer is a good communicator, not confusing or a source of stress. This is a huge factor in relationship building.
 
I was challenged when I reviewed video footage of a training session I had with Zuri. I wanted to measure her nose for a muzzle. I hadn’t done this before and Zuri is hesitant with new things (enter the tape measure) and handling.  “This would make a great video topic”, I thought. What a great way to show a functional use of a well taught ‘touch’ and ‘wait’ with a reluctant dog. It would also demonstrate how seamlessly a dog can learn something new if they have a history of learning other tasks and playing training games that are enjoyable.  Off I went and duly measured Zuri’s nose in front of the camera. It got the job done quickly, in less than two minutes. When I watched the footage back, I was disappointed. On the surface it looked pretty good: no physical restraint or enviromental restraint (like backing a dog into a corner), no force, no struggle, no harsh words or physical intimidation, no avoidance by seeking distance or walking away on Zuri’s part. Yet it lacked enthusiasm. It lacked the joyful demeanour of a softly wagging tail. Where was the anticipation and engagement with gusto? I even noted some subtle signs of stress such as repeated blinking, paucity of movement, head turning away from me and the tape measure, drawing the head away from the tape measure and, because I know her body language so well, even the slight tension in her floppy ears as they pulled backwards and close to her head just a few millimetres. She was licking her lips at times. I wasn’t sure if this was due to the food or a sign of stress, but I suspected stress. She wasn't wagging her tail.
 
I was simply too focused on getting the job done: the job being showing how ‘touch’ and ‘wait’ were so cool for teaching other tasks. I wasn’t using overt force but I was pushing her into a level of discomfort and I was lucky she was staying despite this.
 
What I didn’t like:
 
* I was doing it slowly, but not slow enough.  Instead of breaking the process down into small enough steps, I was jumping straight from presenting the tape measure to touching her with it.
* My hands were moving towards her with the tape, rather than giving her the option of approaching. That’s a big deal for animals: to have options of when to engage and disengage. When an animal feels safe, they will be more compliant. Part of feeling safe for an animal is having the ability to stop the process at any time.
* When she looked away, I prompted her to touch my hand instead of waiting for her signal that she was ready to continue. (All because I wanted to demonstrate ‘touch’!)
* I asked her to ‘wait’ and then held the measuring tape on for too long. I should have been quicker to remove it and built up the duration gradually.
 
This just wouldn’t do. The functional goal had been met but the journey could have been much better for Zuri. She's my bud and this matters to me. So I did it again the next day with the goal to get footage of Zuri engaged with obvious enjoyment. One of my favourite catch phrases is, “Our behaviour changes a dog’s behaviour”. I changed what I was doing ever so subtly.
 
* I broke the process down into even smaller steps. There were quite a few in between showing the tape and wrapping it for a few seconds around her nose to measure.
* Breaking down the process into smaller steps resulted in being able to give a higher rate of reinforcement which is a sure way to get an enthusiastic learner.
* I let her approach the tape rather than put it on her nose.
* If she looked away, I didn’t ask for a ‘touch’. I waited until she was ready.
* I threw treats away from me and let her return in her own time to look for the measuring tape.
* I was more relaxed and my body language was more playful, not so darn serious!
 
The difference was noticeable. Her tail was wagging, her body soft, she was eager to engage and find the tape even when I hid it from view. Her floppy ears were pivoting forward more. The lip licking that was present in the first video was greatly reduced in the subsequent footage. The blinking reduced.
 
I got the behaviour required for taking measurements and then just kept on playing the game because we were both enjoying the moment. It took about one and a half minutes. That said, how long it takes is less of an issue to me than how much fun it is. I make mention because many people believe that it's too time consuming to approach dog handling in this way and therefore resort to physical restraint. I will add that if you do not have a solid trust account with your dog, it will take longer.

Approaching handling this way is a delightful journey where both participants enjoy the ride.
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Email subscribers can watch our journey here.

Turbo the greyhound came to stay as a foster dog. One of the first tasks was to introduce him to Zuri. As far as introductions go, dogs are a lot like people. They each have individual communication styles and personal preferences about which dogs they wish to spend time with and those they’d rather pass on by.

First impressions can have long lasting effects, so taking the time to plan the first meeting is a high priority. If an initial meeting goes badly it can take a lot of effort to reverse the detrimental psychological effects, let alone repair any physical injuries.

Here are some suggested guidelines:

1. Have one handler per dog.
2. Meet in a neutral environment first, not one of the dog’s homes.
3. Choose larger areas, not confined spaces.
4. Allow ample time, don’t rush or force introductions. Let the dogs got at their own pace and allow an avenue of escape or retreat.
5. Let each dog investigate the environment first for an extended period, away from each other, before bringing them into contact.
6. Introduce relaxed dogs, not highly aroused dogs.
7. Use loose leads rather than tight unless required for safety and to remove dogs from each other.
8. Intervene only if required and distract quickly if needed.
9. If in doubt: DON’T introduce. If you have no idea how either dog will react but fear one may bite or attack, don’t introduce them or seek professional assistance. If you really don’t think they will get on, ask yourself, “Why am I introducing them in the first place?”

Please note that the guidelines suggested are exactly that: guide-lines. With more experience and a history of the two dogs, one has a better chance of predicting if two dogs will be fine to greet on their first meeting. If there is any doubt, however, you will need some sort of backup plan such as leads to allow safe separation of the dogs should things go pear-shaped. Ideally, seek the help of a behaviour professional if you are unsure or nervous.

Avoid advice which refers to dogs as having dominant personalities to explain behaviour and encourages using aversive stimuli/punishment to introduce dogs (eg. choker collars, shock collars, leash jerks, yelling). Dominance is not a personality trait and has no practical application when dealing with introducing dogs safely. Furthermore, most aggression in dogs is driven by a desire to escape (which is prevented when on lead) or a desire to remove a source of fear by scaring it away. Having on-lead meetings with short, tense leads and anxious handlers tugging and yelling can actually create conflict that might not have otherwise occurred. I only recommend muzzles if the dog wearing the muzzle is already accustomed to and happy to wear one. If not, placing a muzzle for the first time on a dog and then introducing a strange dog may create a negative association with the new dog. That’s not setting the scene for a good introduction! It is important to be confidence and calm before even considering an introduction. It is so important, I’ll repeat: If in doubt – DON’T. Seek assistance.

Here’s an example of introducing dogs for the first time.

I'm teaching Zuri to feel comfortable wearing a muzzle.  If there is an emergency and she is in pain or under great stress, it may be a wise choice. If she is already under duress, the last thing I want to do is suddenly shove a plastic grill she's never seen before onto her face. This will only increase her stress levels.

Everything was going really well until I changed the location of the training as well as her position from lying to standing. She indicated that she wasn't doing so well in this new scenario.

It's my responsibility as teacher to listen to her and modify the plan if she is having trouble with it. Training should be fun for both of us. If the fun-factor disappears, I need to get it back as quickly as possible. If I don't, at best, reaching my teaching goals will be slow, inefficient and devoid of enthusiasm on the part of  my pupil. At worst, Zuri may develop a dislike of the particular training task leading to avoidance or escape and even fear of the muzzle when it is presented.

So what did I do? I stopped trying to make her move whilst wearing the muzzle. All she had to do was stand for a few seconds with it on and I fed her. Back to how we began on the bed. I then kept it on for longer and longer before I asked her to move. When I did ask for movement, I chose a task she knew really well and enjoyed: Touch. She didn't have to move her body, just her head so her nose touched the palm of my hand. Very quickly this transitioned to her being able to move a step to touch and then follow me a few steps to touch without showing signs of discomfort. Soon she was spinning when asked and even of her own accord!

And now for my unfortunate analogy: https://youtu.be/Vp85lVTgTFo

If you would like to see a video tutorial of how I started teaching Zuri to enjoy wearing a muzzle, let me know in the comments section.

Scout, the six month old black Labrador puppy, came to stay for a while. Her integration into the household relied heavily on Zuri’s reaction to having a new housemate. I wrote about how Zuri’s behaviour changed when Turbo the foster greyhound came to stay. Turbo and Zuri just didn’t hit it off. No fights. No major stand offs. Zuri never relaxed during his stay. After nine weeks, they still had not played.

The minute Scout arrived, I set about choreographing daily life to give Zuri and Scout the best possible chance of getting along. Scout is a wiggly, in-yah-face, barky, playful ball of exuberance. At all hours. In all places. Zuri is calm, respectful of space and prefers to observe before making an acquaintance. Good Lordie, what was I thinking trying to bring these two together? I was counting on past experiences and knowing that Zuri does enjoy the company of other dogs – given the right circumstances. Once she feels confident (safe?), she plays with joyful gusto.

So our dance began:

* Baby gates.

* Closed doors.

* Separate feeding.

* Tethering Scout (whilst I was present) to prevent unwanted advances on Zuri.

* Occupying Scout with alternatives to accosting Zuri (treat dispensers, Treat and Train, carrots to chew, training sessions, car rides, shopping trips, one-on-one time).

* Routines, routines, routines. For example, when coming home with Scout, leaving her in the car while I greet Zuri first minus a bouncing puppy, then bringing Scout inside on lead.

* Avoiding situations where Scout-the-Ninja would come out of nowhere to an unsuspecting, sleepy Ridgeback (especially in hallways, doorways and any transition areas).

* Reinforcing for any pro-social behaviours Zuri showed around Scout e.g. looking at Scout, simply entering the room if Scout was already in there, coming outside if Scout was there, standing still if Scout began sniffing her. It was a most vigorous schedule of Differential Reinforcement of Other (DRO) behaviours, instead of avoidance and escape. It had no other outcome but to make hanging out with Scout a cool idea. Zuri even started coming out the back on Scout’s toilet stops.

* Reinforcing any ‘polite’ behaviours Scout showed towards Zuri e.g. looking at her briefly (instead of staring or nose bopping), coming away immediately when called, waiting patiently while Zuri was fed a treat before getting hers. Again, a really high rate of reinforcement for a wide variety of desired behaviours. This was also done on lead at first to prevent Scout practising unwanted behaviours and to protect Zuri, giving her no need to seek escape or take other action. The lead was removed when Scout became more reliable.

We had some accidents. Zuri was dive bombed by a Kamikaze puppy in the narrow, dark hallway when a door was opened. Zuri's sleep-in was rudely interrupted by a whirlwind of puppy playfulness bombarding the bed. I learnt from these incidents to be more careful with the ‘zones’ and to prevent incidents rather than go into damage control after the fact.

After eight days, no signs of reciprocal play were in sight. The longest it had taken Zuri to play with a new house guest in the past had been four days. I tried to think of all the things in the environment that may have been different with these other dogs compared to Scout (and Turbo). One difference was that the other houseguests, except for Turbo, had slept in their crate in our bedroom. Maybe a simple change in the environment, bringing Scout from the laundry into the bedroom to sleep, might have an effect. So I tried it. 

Did all this have any effect? On the 12th day, after four nights sleeping in the bedroom, Scout and Zuri broke into spontaneous play out in the front yard. Maybe it was just the extra time. Or maybe it was actually precipitated by the sleeping arrangement: Zuri being able to see, hear and smell Scout in a relaxed environment for a prolonged period with no chance of ambush. Was a positive association being made in a safe environment? Maybe it was the ample space out the front. Maybe it was a combination of any or all of these, or some I haven't even thought of.

I hadn’t planned the play and was simply teaching Scout on a long lead while Zuri was wandering around getting her random treats for being in the presence of the crazy black dog. I was ecstatic! Mutual play is an excellent sign that two dogs are going to get along. It must be mutual. Many dogs look like they are playing when in fact one is trying to escape or avoid the contact of an insistent partner. What was even more impressive was how beautifully Scout modified her play style to suit Zuri’s preference. It meant she was listening to Zuri’s signals and adjusting. Scout is a barker and a head banger: every time she barked or banged her nose into Zuri, Zuri turned away, looked away or paused. Scout soon realized that play was more continuous if she didn’t bark into Zuri’s face or bulldoze her. They both loved to chase and run, to play bitey-face with well controlled bite inhibition and to wrestle. They both took breaks and mirrored each other with a shake off. Scout was actually better at being recalled from play than Zuri. I must work on that!  Email subscribers can watch here.

The interesting thing was that Zuri would still not engage in play out the back or inside. There could be any number of reasons for this. I focused on continuing to create positive associations (especially in these areas), reinforcing for desired behaviours, keeping Scout sleeping in the bedroom and providing deliberate opportunities for play out the front once or twice a day. The next video shows that it was pretty tense in the lounge room initially.

On day 19 they broke out into play in the back yard. Only for a few seconds, yet my heart leapt. The breakthrough came later that day inside, when Scout’s play stares were answered with a play bow from Zuri and it was on. It was cautious at first, with Zuri looking at me often when Scout was getting too rough – which melted my heart because it seemed as if she was seeking my assistance. I helped settle things in a light-hearted way rather than by yelling or saying “no” – I wanted them to enjoy play, not superimpose the threat of anything aversive from me when they were playing. So I would pause the play with a recall or by distracting Scout with a butt scratch or by throwing a toy, or simply letting Zuri hide behind me until she was ready to resume. The whole experience needed to be as enjoyable and stress-free as possible. Email subscribers can watch here.

I set up opportunities for inside and outside play every day at times I knew would be most conducive. Not first thing in the morning. Scout is a morning puppy. Zuri likes a sleep-in. Each play session became less cautious and lasted longer. I still felt the need to supervise. Any play between dogs can be very arousing with the risk of tipping over into aggression. Scout gets very excited and sometimes doesn’t stop when Zuri tries to disengage. Since it was early days, I wanted to referee until they had more practice self-regulating. They even let me join in sometimes. How cool is that? Scout was back in the laundry after ten days of bedroom privileges. There was an added advantage to the time in the bedroom that transferred to the laundry. I’ll save that for the next blog.

All in all, I was overjoyed to witness them playing – even if the lounge looked like a pillow cannon had gone off! Compatible play bodes well for a more relaxed cohabitation in a two-dog household. Scout seemed calmer. She even chewed less. Zuri seemed less tense and was around more. It also meant that if I couldn't be bothered taking them for a walk, I could palm them off with, "Go play with your sister!"

A common complaint that comes up with puppies who are first learning to walk on lead is that they bite, chew and tug the lead as soon as it is put on. It’s not a problem limited to puppies either. Many full grown dogs have the same habit. Some people get around the problem by using a metal chain that’s not pleasant to chew. Or by spraying something nasty tasting onto the lead. Or by punishing the behaviour with a leash jerk, a choke with a choker collar or a raised voice. I like to approach the problem by first assessing when and why this behaviour might occur.

Reasons may include that:

* it’s reinforcing. Puppies explore with their mouths and many leads seems to feel good to chew. The attention a dog gets when they start chewing may also be reinforcing: the dog gets looked at, spoken too, touched to the point that trying to retrieve the lead from his mouth becomes a super-fun game of tug. If it wasn’t reinforcing, a dog wouldn’t continue to do it.

* it’s due to frustration. It may be a displacement or replacement behaviour. If a dog cannot access something they want, they may turn on the lead which is restricting them and chew in response.

* it’s a response to something a dog wishes to escape or avoid. They may desperately chew on the lead that is preventing escape.

I choose to introduce a behaviour that replaces the biting and pays off more. If the reason is due to frustration, I provide an alternative behaviour in conjunction with teaching the dog some impulse control in an environment in which he can succeed. It is not effective or efficient to attempt teaching a dog who is already frustrated. For fearful dogs I avoid putting them in the situations that trigger the escape/avoidance response whilst working on helping them overcome the fears in a controlled and safe environment.

My ethos is that training should enhance the relationship between the dog and guardian. For this reason, I avoid punishment-based techniques to stop the behaviour after it has already occurred. Punishment has side effects. The type and intensity of the fallout becomes evident only after the damage has been done. Further, it is generally much harder to reverse than it is to cause. I value the human-dog relationship too much to risk gambling with such consequences.
 
I label many training tasks as games. I do this deliberately because games should be;

a) mutually enjoyable,
b) a vehicle for building positive relationships, and
c) a fun way to learn practical skills.

When has playing games been boring or time wasted with friends? Of course, each individual must enjoy the actual game chosen. It's not truly relationship building if only one party is enjoying it. So it should be with our dogs. I add another proviso; games with our dogs should be win-win. There is no loser when teaching your dog in this way. You will choose to teach your dog skills which will be beneficial and your dog will be reinforced with something he values and enjoys. A relationship of trust is another wonderful outcome.

The “Don’t Chew The Lead Game” and “Drop The Slack Lead Game” are two of my favourite ways to prevent lead chewing and tugging. The emphasis is on prevention by setting the dog up for successfully choosing an alternative behaviour before he bites. If he gets distracted and starts chewing, the “Drop The Lead Game” then gives an alternative behaviour rather than continuing to chew or tug. No force is required and no raised voice.

Here’s some handy extra hints:

* If your dog starts chewing as soon as the lead is clipped on (or before), start the game earlier. Simply show your dog the lead and reinforce for the behaviour of staying still, sitting or just looking at the lead rather than jumping up to bite it. Only clip the lead on when you know your dog won’t bite it. If your dog won't give you an alternative behaviour when you are showing the lead, problem solve why this might be. 
Is he looking for one second before jumping? Anticipate this and work on your timing. Click that look and get the treat to his mouth before he can leave the ground. 
Is the lead too close to him? Hold it higher. 
Does movement make him jump? Hold the lead still. 
Is he grabbing the end of a dangling lead? Fold the lead up and show him, so there are no dangly bits.

* Deliver food directly into your dog’s mouth or onto the ground as this will prevent your dog jumping up. This helps prevent jumping to get the lead as well.

* Avoid letting your dog chew the lead at other times. Avoid putting him in situations where he does chew to get quicker and more robust results.

Here’s a video showing how I approached teaching Yoda the kelpie and Abby the labrador not to chew and tug the lead.

Yoda and Abby simply found chewing and tugging reinforcing. The principles are the same for every dog, but the process itself may need to be modified slightly for each individual. This may include how quickly you progress through the stages or how small you have to break down each increase when raising difficulty.

I hope this helps you in devising a plan for preventing this behaviour. Most of all, I hope this increases the fun-factor for you and your dog.

I'm one of those people who is guilty of taking photos of my dog with a silly hat on. I get great pleasure out of getting a neat shot of Zuri with a hat that corresponds to a special occasion and sharing it. Getting good shots of a dog with a silly hat can be no mean feat. If you approach it the right way, it is amazingly easy and can be enjoyable for both photographer and subject. For me, it must cause no or very minimal signs of stress in Zuri. Here's a sneak peak into how I capture adorable shots of Zuri. She's such a good sport. (Video link for email subscribers)  

I mention the "trust account" that I have with Zuri. Below is a video by Dr Susan Friedman which describes this trust account beautifully. (Video link for email subscribers)

Zuri is a cautious dog. She is curious about new things but hesitant in her approach to investigate. Ready to flee at the slightest hint of danger. Loud noises startle her.

Today I was prepared to protect Zuri from the noise and chaos when the tree loppers came with trucks, electric saws, grinders and mulching machines.  Part of me wanted to instigate a behaviour change plan to help her overcome her fear. The other part of me decided that I don't have to be planning alternative behaviours and graded task approaches to scary stimulus all the time. I can take a chill pill and just protect Zuri, put her in a quiet, safe room and manage the situation.

Dogs are the best teachers.

What started off as management actually became a process of changing behaviour, guided totally by Zuri's responses.  I closed the windows, shut all the doors and left Zuri in her safe place under the desk. I went outside to the mayhem of saws and rumbling mulchers. I peeked inside after a few minutes and Zuri was standing at the front door. Huh? Are you interested in what's going on, Zuri?

I opened the front door a little, so it still offered a buffer of safety but also enough so that she could come out if she wanted. She poked her head out and then walked out. She stayed close to me, watching intently. I had no treats. The door remained opened and was her escape route should she decide she'd been outside long enough. Having the choice to stay or go is very important for fearful dogs.

She stayed. The noise was quite incredible and when a tree fell, the ground actually shook. Zuri took it well. Then, after only a few minutes, she surprised me by moving away from me and settling on her favourite outside chair to continue to observe proceedings. Then she settled further by resting her head on the arm of the chair. When the noise increased and machines moved closer, she got off the chair and came back to me. I simply leant my arm on her back to give for moral/social support. The front door was still open, she could have run inside, but the social contact seemed to be what she needed in that instant. Then she returned to her bed.

When the noise stopped for intermission, Zuri went and investigated the site of the lopping. She sniffed the tree trunks, walked amongst the workmen who were raking, sniffed their rakes and let them pat her as they passed. This was sensational. Zuri was performing her own behavioural change programme, choosing when to approach (decrease distance) at her own pace. I was most impressed that although she had an escape route (the open door), she never used it. I didn't need to reassure her with treats, my proximity was enough and she chose when she needed to be closer to me and when she could explore further away.

My heart leapt when she started rolling in the grass, right next to the mulching truck, amidst the raking workers. This is the epitome of a relaxed and content Zuri.

Sometimes, doing "nothing" is one of the best ways to help a dog overcome fear. By nothing, I actually mean letting the dog guide the process. I actually did a lot of deliberate and strategic things:

* I made her feel safe and did not compel her to face her fear in any way.
* Yet I listened when she felt brave enough to come out and opened the door.
* I didn't cajole her out or coax her out with treats, I let her make the choice herself.
* I still provided safety by leaving the door halfway open/closed as a buffer to the noise and as an escape from the noise if required.
* I stayed still and consistent, let her do all the moving - she knew where I was all the time, could return to me or go inside at any time.
* I didn't ask her to do anything.
* I Let her take her time. She had all the time in the world to watch, listen and gather information from whatever vantage point she felt comfortable.
* I've provided her with a history of alternate behaviours to fall back and a history of removing her or helping her cope with stressful situations in the past.

Sometimes, seemingly doing "nothing" is doing a whole lot of something!

Watch the outcome in the video below. Email subscribers can see the video here.

Dogs are often labelled “dominant” or “submissive”. An internet search will reveal an extensive list of tell-tale signs to alert you that your dog is dominant. This will be followed by another huge list of remedies to assert you as the dominant leader. The methods described are usually adversarial in nature. They seldom recommend fostering a relationship built on understanding another species and what actually motivates their behaviour.

This “them and us” mentality is detrimental and it’s usually the dog who suffers more as a result. Just ask Zuri. Before I researched the notion of dominance in more depth, I carried out a simple test which was recommended to determine if Zuri was dominant. It was also the way to eliminate dominance in my dog if she proved to be so inclined.

Before I go any further, don’t try this at home folks! It may create a dog who is scared of you and apprehensive of your approach. The powerful methods I subsequently applied, based on behavioural science, enabled me to teach Zuri to enjoy this type of handling. It reversed the damage done and has nothing to do with dominance.

I was to wrap both my hands firmly around Zuri’s muzzle, essentially keeping her mouth closed and controlling movement of her head. If she struggled to remove my hands from her muzzle, she was dominant. The degree of dominance she possessed would directly correlate with the amount she struggled to get free and the length of time she tried. To assert my dominance over her, I was to maintain this firm hold no matter what, until she no longer struggled to escape.

I cringe as I write this. Zuri passed this “dominance” test and would probably rank Alpha bitch to the nth degree. She tried to break free immediately, shook her head, tried to toss my hands off, pawed at my hands, started to vocalize and was about to roll her body on the ground to seek release. To describe it subjectively, she appeared to be panicking and it was not enjoyable to witness.

My dog was scared.

I was touching Zuri in a restrictive way she had never been touched before. She was desperately trying to escape – she was not exhibiting dominance. I released my hands very quickly and she ran away. She was wary of my hands moving towards her muzzle now. I felt sick to my stomach.

This is an example of how insidious the “dominance” label can be. My gentle dog would be labelled dominant on the basis of this test. The way to fix her dominance would actually create more fear and essentially undermine a relationship based on trust.

I now set to work fixing the fear resulting from this one event. I used a totally different approach and got Zuri to enjoy her muzzle being touched. Now I can wrap my hands around her nose, making it a game. I’ve taught her to let me hold her muzzle for longer and longer. She no longer flinches or avoids my hands coming towards her nose. You can watch the video footage below or use this link if you are an email subscriber:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIEB1LqwjiE

There is no need to be continually vying for supremacy over your dog. For a start, the notion of dominance commonly used in dog training is not based on the definition used by scientists when discussing animal relationships. Thus, the description of dominance used is essentially flawed. It’s not actually describing what it says it is describing. Have you ever watched the movie “The Princess Bride”?  This classic quote from the Spanish swordsman, Inigo Montoya, applies perfectly to the commonly used term "dominant” dog;

“You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means!”

I couldn’t agree more, Inigo.

Interested in learning more about dominance and dogs? Here’s some reliable links. 

http://www.ava.com.au/public/about-pets/polite-pets-month/resources/debunking-dominance-dogs

http://kb.rspca.org.au/What-is-the-RSPCAs-view-on-dominance-dog-training_475.html

http://drsophiayin.com/philosophy/dominance?/dominance.php

http://avsabonline.org/uploads/position_statements/dominance_statement.pdf

http://www.associationofanimalbehaviorprofessionals.com/whats_wrong_with_dominance.html

http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/new_study_finds_popular_alpha_dog_training_techniques_can_cause_more_harm_t

Zuri and I have moved house.  Our new home is very similar to our old home but there are a few differences. We now have a dog door which gives easy access to a paved, covered patio area. I was way more excited about this than Zuri. What this meant to me was that Zuri could have access to a safe, fenced outdoor area whenever she wanted. I could put a pet loo in the area and she would no longer be so dependent on me letting her out to toilet. It wouldn't be so imperative to arrange someone to come and give her a toilet stop if I was not going to be home for an extended period. I could now sleep through night time pit stops, no longer rudely woken by that mind-probing stare pleading for outside access. Protected from the elements, she could toilet whenever her little heart (or bladder or bowel) desired. Especially important given that she has a princess complex about going out in the rain or getting her paws wet. Yes, this was truly an exciting functional addition.

So I set about teaching Zuri to use the Pet Loo. For those uninitiated to this fine invention, let me describe. It is a dog toilet comprising of a plastic base, corrugated and sloping to enable drainage to a removable reservoir. Artificial grass with holes to allow drainage overlays the base. This is great for toilet training dogs in apartments or in pens. Dogs develop substrate preferences when being toilet trained, so the artificial grass enables a smooth transition to real grass when outside. As a puppy, Zuri was brought up in an apartment and the Pet Loo was a practical and effective means of toilet training. Especially in comparison to running down stairs or waiting for the lift in order to access grass on the ground floor. It was effective then, but I wondered if she would remember how to use it since she hadn't seen it for about three years.

I brought out the clicker and commenced her refresher course. What ensued what quite amusing. She knew I wanted her to interact with the Pet Loo, so she walked onto it and looked at me. No click. So she sat. No click. So she did a circle on it. No click. She backed up to it and put her back feet on it. No click. I needed to help her. Putting toileting on cue is a great idea. I have put each of the functions on cue, with "busy" being the signal to have a wee. I tried it. "Go busy". She looked at me and I swear I heard, "Say what? You want me to wee on this? How about I drop on it, or do another circle?" No click. I repeated, "Busy". So she finally relented and got "busy", was duly clicked and her behaviour reinforced with BBQ chicken. That's all it took. Refresher course done and dusted. Dogs do remember things. I anticipated that going "number two" would be harder to revise since it's not as frequent, but I had a cunning plan for that refresher course as well. As it turned out, my cunning plan was never required.

Now for the hitch, We had been in the house for about two months and she had not used the dog door. In order to use the Pet Loo, she still needed me to open the whole damn door! That kinda defeats the purpose of having a dog door, Zuri.

Task two was to teach her how to use the dog door. To say she was lack lustre was an understatement. She was reluctant to the point of avoiding the door altogether. We had a problem that was not going to go away by itself. She could not be lured or coaxed past the threshold. When I did manage to get her through with praise and the promise of sausage, her avoidance behaviours were noticeably stronger the next time. This is where I had to decide what to do next. I could understand her reluctance. She is a big dog and it's a small door. It's not the ideal size for her. She has to curve her back and crouch to prevent scraping her spine on the top of the door. The floor inside is slippery, without traction to make her feel safer as she moves through. She doesn't like being confined or new things touching her. One experience with a dog door in the past may have been traumatic enough, even painful, to have had a lasting negative association with anything similar in the future. My dilemma was, considering all these reasons, do I persist and devise a plan to overcome her fear or soldier on as we have been doing already?

I chose to persist. My rationale was to give her the independence and choice to move in and out of the house when she wanted. Also the freedom to relieve herself when needed. This would also make my life a little easier, not having to worry about organizing dog visits for her toileting well-being. Part of her well-being is also helping her overcome fear. It is a sad thing to have a dog who is scared of a part of the house. My desire for her was for her to feel safe in her own home. The video below shows the process. It was a most enjoyable experience for both of us.

For email subscribers, here is the link to the Dog Door of Doom

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-R_k4_UHDeA

A milestone commonly celebrated is when a child announces they have gone to the toilet all by themselves for the very first time. You may even be requested to visit the site of this auspicious occasion which marks the inauguration of toileting autonomy.  Please forgive my indulgence, but on the second day of doggy door training, I came home to find a doggy doo taking pride of place on the Pet Loo. I was overcome with pride. Zuri had overcome her fear whilst I was gone to negotiate the dog door alone and had used the designated area for its designated purpose. Two birds with one stone. I was positively glowing as Zuri then came out through the dog door to greet me for the first time. Most importantly, I was overjoyed at fear banished and confidence restored.

Moving house.  It's not on my top 10 list of things I enjoy doing.  It actually doesn't make the top 20 either.  It's a part of life, however, so I best deal with it and make it as painless as possible.  That includes considering Zuri.

Zuri is a creature of habit.  She enjoys the comfort of familiar surroundings and familiar people.  If I move one of her beds a metre away, she will notice immediately.  If I change the position of a potplant, it is the first place she investigates when she is outside.  She is very aware of changes in  her environment and her behaviour can change in response to any alterations. This is true of all dogs.  Environmental changes have an effect on all behaviour. It's the individual dog and circumstances that create the varying nuances of altered behaviour.  Zuri's behaviour did change, despite all my care.  Which makes me wonder how much more intense her little idiosyncrasies may have been if I hadn't taken care to consider her well-being before, during and after the move.

BEFORE THE MOVE

I prepared Zuri for the move.  We visited the new home a few times before the big day. She got to investigate the house and surrounds without pressure. I tried to keep our daily routine as close to usual as possible - even whilst packing and dealing with the added tasks involved in moving.  We went for walks, we spent time training, I utilized treat dispensers more often to take up the slack of less one-on-one time with me.  Unfortunately she became very sick the week before the move.  This made it slightly harder to keep things routine.  She even went off her food.

DURING THE MOVE

During the move I made the decision to keep her with me.  Sometimes I recommend leaving a dog with friends or even a kennel for the day or few days so they don't get lost in the craziness that can be involved in moving house.  This works well for dogs who have no issues with separation or who are used to the friend or kennel they are in.  For Zuri, staying with me and following me around was the better option.  Especially since she wasn't feeling well.  She didn't get in the way and felt more secure being my shadow and watching as her world was transported from one site to another.

AFTER THE MOVE

The first pieces of furniture that I arranged in our new home were her dog beds.  This was part of my strategy to make her feel as comfortable as soon as possible.  I observed where she seemed to gravitate and tried to place her beds in those places.  If she chose the place, I was hoping that's where she felt most content. In this strange new world she now had a haven of familiarity that she could retreat to.  Her food and water were the next in place and she was shown where these were.  I took her on toilet breaks and showed her where to go - reinforcing her excitedly for going in this new area.  This was complicated by her sickness. She went from diarrhoea to constipation within a few days. I was aware that this change in bowel movements could be a health issue, a reaction to medication or a stress response. Many dogs that are toilet trained in the old home may urinate and/or defecate inside the new place.  This can be a combination of not knowing where to go in unfamiliar surroundings, the stress of the move and being a new environment.

Zuri took about three weeks to settle.  She moved from bed to bed. She didn't sleep well and woke up during the night to move more frequently than usual.  Being sick didn't help as she needed more toilet stops during the night as well.  Maybe this was stress related as well? She woke and barked at unfamiliar noises.  She generally barked more than usual as people or dogs passed.  Her behaviour changed from wanting to go out the back door to sitting at the front door and wanting to go out.  Who can blame her?  I put a bed out the front which caught the morning sun.  In our old place, the back door was the gateway to morning sun!

Some other behaviour changes in dogs that can coincide with moving are pacing, hiding, licking themselves excessively, digging or digging more and chewing or chewing things not usually on the chew list.  They may appear disobedient, not performing tasks they normally have no problem with.  Knowing that a dog may be responding to the move and new environment is the first step in assisting a return to normal.

MORE CONSIDERATIONS

The foot traffic of dogs and people is quite a bit greater and closer than that passing our old home.  The increased frequency and proximity is a challenge for Zuri.  So, to help her, my plan was to devise some training sessions helping her get used to this and no longer feel the need to bark.  At the very least, not to bark as frequently or with such intensity.  We've just started and it's working nicely.  I plan sessions and also capture her desired behaviour spontaneously whenever we're sitting out the front together watching the world go by.  To this end, I have a little container of treats permanently by my chair, so I have the best chance of reinforcing her for just watching and not barking as people pass.

I'm also teaching her to go to the toilet (poop) in certain places.  We don't have our own yard. If I miss "poo patrol" one day, I don't want to inconvenience the neighbours.  At least it will be outside my door :-)

We have a little chihuahua (Minnie) as a neighbour.  She is scared of big dogs.  I would be too if I was that tiny. Zuri is scared of new dogs.  I'm working on these guys getting on.  So far we are having success.   Minnie no longer barks and retreats incessantly and Zuri no longer stops and stares.  Minnie comes out and snuffles around and Zuri raises her head briefly from her bed, then resumes her relaxed position.  They are able to be closer and closer.  Being a dog trainer, I'm going to push the boundaries and see if they can become playmates.  I wouldn't necessarily go as far as recommending this to my clients, but I'm dedicated and have the time and patience to go as slowly as both dogs need to get acquainted.  I've also seen Minnie play.  Zuri plays well with much smaller dogs.  She also respects very subtle dog body language of other dogs, so I don't fear she will be too rough. If they overcome their fear of each other but choose not to become interactive friends, I'll accept their wishes. I'm secretly hoping they will become best buddies. It will be a great alternative for fun and stimulation for Zuri, while I sit out the front watching them play when I'm too weary for a walk. Plus the joy of watching two dogs play well together is hard to beat.

I am blessed enough to live near the beach and I have a dog, Zuri, who loves walking and splashing in the water.  We visit frequently and over the hot holiday period, the dog beach has been frequented by a lot more dogs than usual.  A lot of dogs who may not be regular beach goers.

Why do I make such a presumptuous statement?  Zuri and I kicked back and watched the world go by and here's what we observed.

A little corgi type dog accompanied his guardians on the shoreline.  He didn't make any overtures towards entering the ocean, so one guy picked him up and waded into the water with him.  When the corgi was held close to his body, there seemed to be no problem.  However, as the corgi was lowered to the water he started to wriggle and struggle.  Once in the water, his little legs were paddling furiously.  As soon as the guardian released his grip, the little guy turned straight around and headed for shore as fast as he could go, only to be scooped up at the other end and dutifully handed back to the first guardian.  The procedure was repeated with great care and, I can only presume, the kindest of intents.  After quite a few trials of this, the little corgi began to try and avoid the guy waiting at the shoreline.  Finally, when the drop and swim procedure seemed to be over, he trotted away from his guardians and chose to sit far away from the shore line.

A large mastiff type dog was further up, knee knee in water.  His female guardian was in front pulling on his lead towards the deeper water.  His male guardian stood behind, pushing the dog forward from his rump.  The dog stood firm!  I asked if they were on Facebook, hoping to direct them to my Dog Charming Page for information.  I desperately wanted to help.  They looked at me like I was some crazy, friendless person.  Of course they said no.

I think you get the picture.  This was happening to countless dogs on the beach. Maybe this was their first time at the beach.  Maybe they just didn't like going into the water.  So many guardians seemed intent on convincing their dog that this was the thing to do - by pretty much forcing them into the water and hoping their dog started having fun.

For me, as a behaviour consultant, it was like watching someone carrying a terrified child into the water and then dropping them in the deep end, hoping they'll get over their fear and learn to love it.

Hence my dilemma.  I really wanted to say something.  To help.  But I didn't know what to do.  Unsolicited advice from a know-it-all stranger about your dog (or child) is seldom received well.  So I did what I believe is a powerful form of communication.  Benjamin Franklin said, "Well done is better than well said."  I put my money where my mouth was and took Zuri to the water's edge.

Now Zuri loves wading, but swimming, not so much.  She used to swim, but recently prefers to wade.  I'd like her to swim, but I'd rather convince her that it's fun than force her.  Ultimately, if she chooses not to swim, I'm fine with that.  I had some treats and reinforced her for going deeper and deeper. I played with her and made a game of running in and out of the water.  She went deeper but didn't swim.  We were BOTH having fun.

Walking up the beach on our way home we came across a family;  Mum, Dad and the three kids.  Oh, and the new adoptee, the dog.  She was enjoying interacting with the family and it was obvious they loved her dearly, but as soon as someone grabbed her to take her deeper, she struggled to escape and swam back to shore.  Then she avoided anyone who seemed to be reaching for her collar to pull her deeper into the water.

I waded in and chatted.  The dog came up to me and I casually scratched her butt - which sent her into raptures.  I moved away and she followed me to get that butt scratch.  I moved to deeper water and she swam out to me - to redeem the glory of that butt rub!  Who knew that's all it would take?  The response from the guardians was "Wow, how did you do that?" Awesome, now I can help because I've been asked. The butt scratch technique worked for them too.  So did playing with her and praising her enthusiastically. Brilliant. If only Zuri was this easy.

My dilemma had been solved.  Benjamin was right, well done truly is better than well said.